| 27
Sep 05 - Interior |
| I got tired of not having
anything on this page! Here
is the dead pedal. We shifted the pedals to the right slightly by
extending the foot box towards the
engine. Moving the pedals and reworking
the brace on the left gave enough room for a dead pedal. On
the right is the pedal bender I made, we'll use it to tweak the
pedals after the car is drivable.
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I had so many requests for the pedal
bender drawings that I just posted them here. None of the
dimensions are critical, have fun!
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| The dead pedal is nothing
fancy just some sheet metal bent at an angle and riveted to the
outer foot box wall. It will be covered with carpet.
Also installed brackets to hold a passenger
side grab bar 'Nother good tip from an internet forum, I wanted
a glove box, but decided to go with the grab bar instead. I did
not want a cheap plastic glove box and also did not want to fabricate
one. In my opinion the passenger side dash needs something, it looks
too plain otherwise.
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| We also fitted the seats,
we opted for the Street Performer seats for the added head and neck
protection. We welded a 1" square tube on the front of the
FFR provided mounts in order to recline the seats a little. I also
cut out the inside of the steel mount to lighten it a little. No
adjustment, its really not needed, there's not much room in there!
Nuts were tack welded to the mount for the mounting bolts.
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| The seats are mounted
at a small angle so the back clears the door latch and helps position
the occupants more comfortably, the cockpit design of the FFR MK
III puts both occupants at a very slight angle anyway. The slight
angle of the seat is not very noticeable. |
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| I made a slot out of
the rear mounting hole of the modified parking brake, this allows
it to be scooted in a little to clear the front of the passenger's
seat. Thanks to Skip L for this tip, he discovered this trick on
his 4.6 build. |
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| 16 Oct 05 -
Trunk
We used eDead from eBay on the trunk
to help prevent it from vibrating. eDead appears to be the
same as Dynamat and BrownBread. The trick to this stuff is
to use small pieces and cover small areas at at time. Once stuck
down its not coming off. eDead recommends 2x12" strips, but we used
a wide range of sizes. We trimmed it around the edges where the
press on bulb seal fits so it would not be too thick for the
seal to grip, this was probably not necessary.
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12 Mar 05 - Dash Done!
Note no wrinkles in the covering --
thanks to Skip L, he scored this vinyl material at a fabric store.
No padding on the back and matt black to reduce the glare.
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13 Aug 06 -Seat mount rework. |
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| Seats before
rework, I have no problem with the angle, but I did not like the
large gap between the back of the seats and body.
My wife decided that I should add
a Sparco adjustable track to the drivers side seat. Its part
number 0493 that is a double locking unit, so its better for the
race track. It fits all Sparco seats, but is a little wide for the
Street Performers seats though. The release handle bends easily.
The tracks are 1 1/8" high.
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| I made some
angled mounts out of 1/8" x 1 1/4" steel. I drilled holes
through the mounts so it could be fastened to the seat. |
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| Not shown
in these pictures is a flat piece I welded across the front so I
could reuse some of the holes I previously drilled in the floor
for the old mounts.
The total height is 3 1/2 at
the front and 1 1/2" at the rear. (I probably would go much less
if you have the larger wooden steering wheel, but you can shim up
the wheel a little so your legs will clear, or fab a removable steering
wheel) This gave about a 15 degree angle to the back of the seats
and the headrest is just about straight up and down -- 90 degrees.
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| The passenger
mount is made the same way, only it is a little taller so the seat
heights are the same, and gets some extra reinforcement.
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| I squashed
the seats in the press so I can fit them where I wanted. I was hoping
to avoid this, ha, ha. I'll spread them out later with a Porta-Power
when they are back in the car. |
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| I got about
3" of forward adjustment, the tracks have lots more, but the way
I mounted the seats limited it to about 3" I did not want any of
the track visible when the seat was all the way back against the
real wall. |
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| The track
mounting holes just missed the 4" round cross tube on the drivers
side, so I riveted a small piece of titanium to the tube and
bolted the track to it. On the passenger side, I drilled and tapped
the 4" round tube. All the rest of the bolts go thru either
the flat plates or 2" square cross members. |
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| The seats are still
at a slight angle, but now they are more reclined and its easier
to see over the hood since I raised them a little. Its actually
quite comfortable -- no BMW, but it'll do. It also looks better
with the tall FFR roll bars and still passes the broomstick test.
My wife can now push in the clutch when
she slides the seat forward :) Look out!
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The tradeoff seems to be seat incline
or recline vice leg room. The more upright the seat is, the more
leg room you will have because less recline moves your hips back
with the Street Performer seats. After I drive it for a while, I
may modify the mounts again.
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26 May 07- Trunk and Cockpit Carpet |
| I used Elmer's Flooring
Adhesive from Wal-Mart. Elmer's states its for multi-surfaces and
various uses. They also claim that it is water resistant. It allows
a few minutes to position the carpet -- not like contact cement,
but once dry, that carpet is not coming off. Its thick stuff that
does not run off vertical surfaces. I also painted the seam areas
flat black to prevent any aluminum from showing thru.
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| The small storage compartment
was difficult to cover. I ended up trimming the carpet fibers under
the overlapping pieces in order to get the top part to lay flatter.
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| The trunk is almost
done. The battery box trim bezel and sending unit cover are test
fit. I think I am going to make a new sending unit cover out of
flat aluminum sheet. |
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| The cockpit gets covered
in eDead. If I had to do it over again, I would not cover the entire
trunk or cockpit with the eDead. If you notice in most OEM cars,
there is only a small portion of the interior of the doors and the
like are covered with damping material. This would shave 30 or so
pounds off the car. |
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| Carpet in place. The
wire is for the fuel pump. There was no good way to route it from
the inside to the outside of the 4" tubes, so I ran it thru the
cockpit. The button on the trans tunnel is for the line lock.
I also replaced the stock belts with
camlocks.
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