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Electrical |
| 5 Nov 05-
Wiring Harness |
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| After much research
of aftermarket wiring harnesses and study of the 95' Mustang
wiring diagrams, we decided to purchase a
"Its a Snap" harness from TPI. |
To use the existing
95 harness would require just too much cutting and splicing,
re-pinning of various connectors and hours to figure it
out. In addition, there are wires in the harness that are
not in the wiring diagram - maybe a mid year change? Then
there's the '90 EFI harness whose connectors do not match
up with any on the '95 main harness. Talk about a hack job.
Besides, the Its a Snap harness is only $130.00. Maybe I
can sell parts of the old harness on eBay. |
| The new plan
is to use a 1990 EFI harness we snagged on eBay coupled
with the Its as Snap harness. |
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| Here's the list
so far... - ’90 EFI
system with associated sensors and relays, no EGR or canister
-TFI distributor and Mallory Ignition Box
-ECC keep alive
-Fuel pump and relay
-Inertia switch
-Front left turn signal lamp
-Front right turn signal lamp
-Turn signal switch and flasher
-Hazard flasher and switch
-12V power outlet
-Charging system and alternator light
-MIL light
-Tachometer
-Water temperature gauge
-Voltmeter
-Oil indicator light
-Parking lights
-Interior courtesy, hood and trunk lights
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-Horn, relay
and switch
-Dash lights
-Electric fan and temp sensor, override switch
-Clutch safety and neutral safety switches
in parallel
-Rear taillights
-Left rear turn signal lamp
-Right rear turn signal lamp
-Brake lights and inline switch
-Backup lights and switch (TBD)
-Headlights – low
-Headlights – high
-Floor mounted dimmer switch
-Fuel gauge and sender (GM 90 ohm)
-Hi-beam indicator lamp
-Turn signal indicator lamps
-License plate lamp
-Starting system, ignition switch and pushbutton start switch |
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| 20 Nov 05-
Its-A-Snap Harness |
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I opted for the larger Its-A-Snap harness, 20 fuses and
21 circuits. Every wire is marked with the circuit name
and number and is also color coded. What a difference as
compared to the old harness! We'll adapt the EFI harness
to the new harness and run necessary wires for the computer
and associated sensors. |
I started the wire diet on the
main harness before deciding to use the Its A Snap harness.
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| The Ford stock
connector pins are held in by red or other color plastic
blocks, most can simply be pulled out with a pair of needle
nose pliers, but some have locking clips. The pins
also have locking clips, once released, the wires can be
removed form the back of the connector. |
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| We installed
the fuse box in approximately the same location as FFR.
I kept it inside the car as it is not sealed or waterproof.
The windshield bracket will be modified slightly to clear
the rivet heads for the mounting bracket. |
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| I made another
titanium heat shield to protect the wires and other components
from some of the heat radiated from the headers.
On the MKIII, the side panel
hits the clutch safety switch if its used, so I cut off
part of the switch housing, soldered the wires to the terminals
and covered the thing with epoxy, crude but effective.
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I wanted to hide much of the
wiring, so I brought the wires out the side of the foot
box rather than the top above the master cylinder.
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30 Dec 05- Relay
Mount and Dash |
| I added a brace
to stiffen the firewall. We also fabricated brackets to
mount the relays and flashers, ECC, and BAP.
I was going purchase an electronic
self-canceling turn signal unit, but since the Its-A-Snap
harness came wired with the flashers, I'll use an old style
turn signal switch instead and save the 200 bucks for something
else.
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If you look closely, you'll
see some of the many ground studs I welded on, its one of
the things I regret doing. I should have drilled holes and
used rivet nuts -- much neater and easier to position the
grounding point exactly where you need it.
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21 Jan 06- Turn Signal Wiring
Well, the old style turn signal
switch blocks my view of the tach a little, so for now we
are just going to use a toggle switch on the dash.
Here's the wiring diagram I came up with for the turn signals,
no relays, no diodes needed.
An 1157 bulb draws 2.1 amps at 12 V. So each side draws
less than 5 amps total with the indicator. If you really
wanted, you can also get away with only one flasher.
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We were not concerned with having
all 4 bright filaments work with the brake and turn signals.
I wanted to keep the wiring simple.
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28 Jan 06 - Dash Wiring |
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| I started wiring
the dash, the idea is to use connectors so we can remove
the entire dash for whatever reason. Check out the expensive,
copyrighted, patented, hi-tech dash holder at the right.
Top
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11 Feb 06 RPM Switch and Pill |
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| We've disassembled
the dash and covered it with material. While the adhesive
was drying we started working on the adjustable RPM switch.
Also made an adjustable pill
for the MSD RPM switch, we followed the
instructions given on correl.net with a few minor changes.
We'll use the RPM switch to turn on a shift light just to
the left of the tach. The formula to calculate the resistance
needed to turn activate the switch at a given RPM is simple...
Activation RPM - 1000 = ohms.
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I'll probably buy the MSD pills,
since it appears that the homemade pill has a tendency to
work out of the switch and I'm afraid it will work itself
out when the car is running. Although, I could wrap a strap
around it. Oh well, not all science projects are successful.
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20 Feb 06 Dash Connectors |
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| The black Molex
connectors are Digi-Key part numbers ...
WM1929-ND Connector Female 4
position
WM1948-ND Terminal male 10-12 ga
WM1947-ND Terminal female 10-12 ga
WM1934-ND Connector Plug 4 position
Not cheap, but rated 50 amps
per contact - they should handle anything. We are using
them for the headlights, ignition, and aux power. Overkill,
but also peace of mind. Note they are not waterproof.
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Be sure to view the spec sheet
on Digi-Key's web site for any connectors you get, the sheet
will show you how to assemble them.
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| The white Molex
connectors are Digi-Key part numbers ...
WM1253-ND Connector Female 12
position WM1252-ND Connector Plug 12 position
M1247-ND Connector Female 4 position
WM1246-ND Connector Plug 4 position
WM1270-ND Terminal male 14-20 ga
WM1271-ND Terminal female 14-20 ga
The 12 positions are rated
11 amps per contact and the 4 positions are rated for 13.5
amps per contact. We used the 4 position connectors for
turn signals and some lights and the 12's on everything
else. Note they are not waterproof.
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You may have noticed that there
is one male and one female of each type connector and only
two of each, this makes it impossible to connect them wrong!
I wanted to keep the back
of the gauges accessible to change a bulb if needed and
to adjust the speedo and tach.
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| 60 Amp Maxi
slow-blow fuse for the main power, no fusible links here!
Digi-Key F1039-ND and F1085-ND for the fuse block. Note
these parts are also not waterproof. Plan is to mount them
to the firewall in the engine compartment near the starter. |
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| 12
Mar 06 Dash Done |
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| New MSD RPM
selector installed and dash wiring completed.
Note the tip from the Maytag repairman. |
 
When I checked the resistance
across the pins of the RPM selector, it did not match the
formula above from Corral net. It may take some trial and
error to get the light to come on at the right RPM.
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Did you get
it?
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Ever seen a fridge or dishwasher
that did not have the schematic stuck inside it
somewhere? I did the same with the wire color
codes and connector pin outs. Its to the left of
the MSD unit. |
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To see the front of the
dash click here!
Top
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9 Apr 06 Wiring Continues |
| What a mess!
Click
here to read about issues with the computer harness.
At 6 or 12 circuit Its A Snap harness probably would have
worked better, I covered the unused circuits with shrink
wrap and will tuck them out of the way. I also did not power
the Accessory circuit, I did not use it, no wipers,
no heat, no heated seats, etc -- the lighter I can make
the car the better! Hopefully 2100 lbs or less. |
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| I grounded the
fuel cell and will also ground the filler cap after the
body is on. |
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| Lifesaver!
Battery powered continuity tester
with a 12 foot lead, which is just about long enough to
go from one end of the car to the other.
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6 May 06 Wiring Continues |
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Behind the dash is pretty full on
the drivers side and somewhat empty on the passenger side.
Top
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| New fuse blocks,
the small top one holds a 40 amp fuse for the HEGO heaters,
the middle one is an 80 amp for the rest of the electrical
system. The large one contains a 175 amp fuse that isolates
the alternator from the rest of the car. |
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The Mallory Hi-Fire
will be connected after I get the car started and
the engine is running OK.
I also have do something
with the firewall panel that the wires pass thru
into the cockpit.
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| Front of dash,
I still have yet to wire the dash connectors.
I used a 15 amp fuse back
by the cutoff switch for the computer power (KAPWR pin 1)
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| Under dash,
the dash connectors are partially wired, still have to make
the under dash support panels and clean up the wiring. |
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| I used a jumper
with a low amperage fuse when connecting the battery for
the first few smoke tests.
Top
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24 June 06 Dash |
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| Started cleaning
up some of the dash wiring and installed the Tweecer.
I also installed a hinged under
dash panel to stiffen and keep the dash from flexing.
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29
July 06 Lights
Weather proof connectors from
Dell City. I wired all the taillights with the same connectors.
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| The headlights
and front turn signals were wired with opposite connectors,
female on one, male on the other, less likely to connect
them wrong in the future. |
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| 4 Sep 06
Finalizing the Dash Wiring
We cleaned up the wiring behind
the dash a little while I had it apart chasing another problem.
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Top |
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10 Oct 06 Carb
Conversion |
| The change to
carb really cleaned up the area behind the dash! |
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